Building Trade Associations

ACCA, the association of Air Conditioning Contractors of America, dates back to 1914.(NWAHACA), The National Warm Air Heating and Air Conditioning Association, later became (ARCA), the Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Contractors of America. more info.
ACI, founded in 1904, is a technical and educational society dedicated to improving the design, construction, maintenance and repair of concrete structures. Construction Book Express offers a wide variety of ACI books and manuals. more info.
ADA. The Americans with Disabilities (ADA) Act states its purpose as providing "a clear and comprehensive national mandate for the elimination of discrimination against individuals with disabilities." The ADA Act guarantees disabled people access to employment, public accommodations, transportation, public services and telecommunications. Construction Book Express offers a wide variety of AIA guidelines. more info.
The American Institute of Architects (AIA) was created in 1857, based on the foundation to “unite in fellowship the Architects of this continent, and to combine their efforts so as to promote the artistic, scientific, and practical efficiency of the profession." Over time, these precepts have been further refined, but the basic objectives have remained the same. more info.
AISC, headquartered in Chicago, is a not-for-profit technical institute and trade association established in 1921 to serve the structural steel design community and construction industry in the United States. AISC's mission is to make structural steel the material of choice by being the leader in structural-steel-related technical and market-building activities, including: specification and code development, research, education, technical assistance, quality certification, standardization, and market development. more info.
Founded in 1852, the American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE) represents more than 133,000 members of the civil engineering profession worldwide, and is America's oldest national engineering society. ASCE's vision is to position engineers as global leaders building a better quality of life. more info.
ASHRAE was formed by the merger of two societies, American Society of Heating and Ventilating Engineers (ASHVE), known after 1954 as American Society of Heating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHAE) and the American Society of Refrigerating Engineers (ASRE). The two merged in 1959. more info.
The International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Codes (IAPMO) is dedicated to the protection of the public's health and safety through the development and maintenance of the Uniform Plumbing Code and Uniform Mechanical Code. more info.
On December 9, 1994, the International Code Council (ICC) was established as a nonprofit organization dedicated to developing a single set of comprehensive and coordinated national codes. more info.
The Illuminating Engineering Society of North America (IESNA) was founded in 1906 to establish scientific lighting recommendations and to disseminate this information to all interested parties. It is the recognized authority on lighting in North America. more info.
The NFPA mission is to reduce the worldwide burden of fire and other hazards on the quality of life by providing and advocating scientifically-based consensus codes and standards, research, training, and education. more info.
SMACNA standards and manuals address all facets of the sheet metal industry, from duct construction and installation to air pollution control, from energy recovery to roofing. more info.
The American Wood Council (AWC) is the wood products division of the American Forest & Paper Association (AF&PA). AWC develops internationally recognized standards for wood design and construction. Its efforts with building codes and standards, engineering and research, and technology transfer ensure proper application for engineered and traditional wood products. Publications

Air Quality in the Office

Most of us work in environments with some type of Heating, Ventilation and Air-Conditioning system (HVAC). HVACs are designed to maintain comfortable temperature and humidity levels and filter out any harmful air pollutants. Ventilation is defined as the supply and removal of air from inside a building. This process typically includes bringing in outdoor air, conditioning and mixing it with some of the indoor air and exhausting some of the indoor air outside. The quality of indoor air may deteriorate when this process is not working properly.

Sick Building Syndrome (SBS)
HVAC systems that are improperly operated or maintained can also contribute to Sick Building Syndrome (SBS). Some of the symptoms of SBS include dry mucous membranes and eye, nose, and throat irritation. These disorders lead to increased employee sick days and reduced work efficiency. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health reports that poor ventilation is an important contributing factor in many sick building cases.

ASHRAE Standards 62-1989 & 62-2001
In 1989, the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) published its "Standard 62-1989: Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air Quality". This standard applies to all types of facilities and recommends a range of 15 to 60 cfm/person, depending upon the activity in that room. Because of recent IAQ litigation, many HVAC system designers view ASHRAE Standard 62-89, as a minimum ventilation standard that must be met, in addition to local codes. In 2001 ASHRAE reviewed Standard 62-1989, approved and transferred to Standard 62-2001.

Ventilation System Problems and Solutions
The processes involved in ventilation provide for the filtering of pollutants. Increasing the rate at which outdoor air is supplied into the building increases indoor air quality. Buildings with high ventilation rates may suffer indoor air problems due to an uneven distribution of air, or inadequate exhaust ventilation. Well-ventilated buildings may also have a strong pollutant source, which will impair the indoor air quality. The closer such a source is to an exhaust the more effective the ventilation. It is good practice to provide separate exhaust systems in areas where copy machines or solvents are used. Providing exhaust for these specific sources can result in a reduction of the overall building exhaust ventilation needed.

System Design
Designs that specify HVAC system operation at reduced or interrupted flow during certain parts of the day can cause increased indoor contaminant levels and impair removal. Minimum ventilation rates should be defined by air cleanliness and distribution, as well as temperature and humidity.
Failure to maintain proper temperature, humidity and air movement in a building can lead occupants to block supply registers. Placement of partitions or other barriers within a space can also impair air movement. Also, locating air supply and return registers too close together can result in an uneven fresh air distribution.
The location of all air supply vents must be carefully considered. Place supply vents as far away as possible from outdoor sources of pollution, such as loading docks, parking and heavy traffic areas, chimneys, and trash depots, provide a pathway for contaminants into the building's ventilation system.

Proportion of Outdoor Air
To dilute and eventually remove indoor contaminants, HVAC systems must bring in adequate amounts of outdoor air. However, because it is costly to heat cold winter air and to cool hot summer air, some building engineers reduce or eliminate the amount of outdoor air brought into the system during hot and cold spells; this allows contaminated air to accumulate inside, causing pollutant concentrations to increase.

Periods of Operation
An HVAC system that begins to operate after building occupants have arrived or shuts off before the end of the day can cause an increase in building-and occupant-generated pollutant levels. Also if the system is off at night and on weekends, building-generated pollutants can accumulate.

Maintenance
HVAC systems must be properly maintained to promote indoor air quality. If this is not done, ventilation systems can become a source of contamination or become clogged and reduce or eliminate air-flow. Humidification and dehumidification systems must be kept clean to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi. Failure to properly treat the water in cooling towers to prevent growth of organisms, such as Legionnella, may introduce such organisms into the HVAC supply ducts and cause serious health problems. Accumulations of water anywhere in the system may foster harmful biological growth that can be distributed throughout the building.

Economic Considerations of Air Quality
It is generally agreed that poor indoor air can adversely affect employee health and productivity. Improvements in the indoor air environment may substantially increase employee moral and productivity. Therefore, it is important to include indoor air quality controls in operation, maintenance, and energy conservation strategies.

Resolving Air Quality Problems
Operate the ventilation system in a manner consistent with its design.
Perform maintenance and inspections on a regular basis.
Identify pollution sources and either remove them or use alternate venting techniques.
Increase ventilation rates during periods of increased pollution for example: during painting, renovation, and pesticides use.
Stay up to date on revisions to Ventilation Standards and Building Codes

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Every Home has Defects

We'd all like to buy the perfect home. Unfortunately, it doesn't exist. Even new homes have defects. That's why it's important to have any home you buy inspected by qualified professionals-even if it's brand new.
You'll undoubtedly discover defects during your inspections. In fact, you should hope that any significant defects are uncovered before you remove your inspection contingency from the purchase contract. It's far worse to be surprised after closing by unanticipated repair expenses.
Armed with a complete assessment of the current condition of the property, you can make an informed decision about whether to purchase the property in its present condition. Or, you may want to renegotiate the terms of your contract with the seller. If defects are incurable, you may want to withdraw from the contract altogether.
Your purchase contract should set guidelines for how inspection defects are to be handled. For example, the seller may have had a "termite" inspection completed before marketing the property. If so, the contract might specify which party-buyer or seller-will pay for the required corrective work.
Not all inspection contingencies are the same. Some specify that the buyers have the unilateral right to approve or disapprove inspections. In this case, if the buyers disapprove the inspections, the contract may be cancelable at the buyer's option.
House Hunting Tip: Even if your contract allows you to withdraw due to inspections, carefully consider before electing this option. You will already have spent considerable time, effort and money finding and inspecting the property. If the defects are correctable, it's usually worthwhile to try negotiating an agreement with the sellers rather than starting the process over again.
Some inspection contingencies provide for buyers to give the sellers the opportunity to correct defects, rather than just walk away from the deal. In this case, the terms of the contract often become subject to further negotiation.
Before asking a seller for inspection-related concessions, make a list of the significant defects that you discovered during your inspections. Then find out how much it will cost to repair these defects. When you make your request, put it in writing and include a copy of your cost accounting list along with the reports and estimates on which you're basing your request.
You may find that the seller is not willing to negotiating over items that were disclosed to you before you made an offer to purchase the property. It still may be worthwhile to point out that the cost of the previously disclosed items in addition to the newly discovered defects alter the amount you can reasonably pay for the property.
Sellers are wise to consider any reasonable proposal from a well-qualified buyer. If the inspection-related defects are significant, they are likely to be a concern to other buyers. Depending on the law in your state regarding seller disclosures, you may have to provide copies of the buyer's reports to future buyers who are interested in the property.
There are several ways in which sellers can participate in buyers' repair requests. They can have the work done by closing, if time permits. Often contractors will accept payment at closing.
Or they can credit money to buyers as long as the credit is called a credit for buyers' nonrecurring closing costs. Lenders usually limit the amount of such a credit to 3 percent of the purchase price or equal to the actual amount of the nonrecurring closing costs, whichever is less.
The Closing: Some lenders will allow money from the seller to be held in an escrow or trust account so that work can be completed after closing.

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Reinvent Your Home

Dream big and realize that you can achieve the feel of a new home without having to move. One of the great ironies of homeownership is that most houses reach their highest potential just when they are sold. The owners get by for years without improving or repairing their home. Does your house fall into this category? If so, get busy and start improving your greatest asset.
Remove Your Blinders
Stop looking at your house for what it is and begin to discover what it can be. The first step is to remove your blinders.
Whenever you live in one place for a while you develop a shorthand way of looking at it. Now, take a few minutes and really examine how you feel about your home. Inevitably, a number of characteristics will come to mind: some good, some bad.
You might think your house is cute, but cramped, or dark, but cozy. Some set of characteristics dominates the way you feel about the home. When you see a new idea or product for the home, your subconscious asks, Will it look good in my dark, but cozy house??
It's as if you take the basic characterization as being unchangeable, when in reality, just about anything can be changed. Plus, it will almost always be less expensive to upgrade your home than it will be to move into an already upgraded home. So if you like the neighborhood-don't move-just take whatever steps are necessary to improve your home.
Visualize Your Dream Home
At one extreme, you could tear down the house and start over again. Since that is drastic, just think about what you would do if you had a fresh start. Here are some thought-provoking questions:
What would you build if you could start over?
What would your dream house look like?
What would the master bedroom look like?
How about the kitchen?
How many cars would you like the garage to accommodate?
What if you changed your paint color scheme?
Let yourself go. Consider installing a large, two-person tub with jets that will help you unwind at the end of the day. If an area of your home is notoriously dark, install windows or glass blocks to provide natural light. Outside, how about a large deck for entertaining? Would it be nice to snuggle in your own private home theater? How would skylights change the feeling you get when you walk into the kitchen?
If your family seems to be outgrowing your house, add on a new room. Changing the appearance of the front entrance can drastically improve the look of your house. Also, landscaping with the help of a professional can do wonders for an overgrown, under maintained lawn. Replacing wallpaper, flooring, cabinets, fixtures, and appliances can update your home and make you feel like you're living in a brand new house.
Gather Ideas
Build your dream house in your mind. It's a great exercise for getting the blinders off. Once you begin to envision what you really want, you can start letting go of the old image of the house. With that done, you're ready for step two: gathering specific ideas.
The trick is to focus on desires. Don't spend too much time thinking about what you can afford or what is practical. Essentially, you are brainstorming. Even unworkable ideas are good because they often lead to still better, more feasible ones.
Go on a quest to discover your options. Go to home shows. Buy some magazines. Tour some model homes in nearby developments. Virtual equivalents for many of these activities now exist on the Internet. When you see something you like, take a picture, copy a photo, make some notes or tear out the page.
Gather together all the good ideas you find into a folder. Take it out from time to time and let the images stimulate your mind. You'll soon start combining ideas and coming up with completely new ones.
Once you begin to find that new ideas are getting rare, take your file to an architect or a design/build firm. They can help you figure out what's feasible. In many cases, they'll help you discover alternative ways of getting the results you desire the most.

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Investing in Your Home's Future

When you're trying to nail down a budget for your brand new house, "what's 1 percent in the grand scheme of things?" asks Newark, Ohio, custom home builder Vince Ghiloni. The dollar amount is not much, but, as Ghiloni tells his clients, the purpose is significant. He calls this 1 percent "insurance for the future."
Getting more specific, Ghiloni says he typically allocates about 1 percent of a construction budget for "beefing up the basics." He builds a stronger foundation, a stronger and more rigid frame, and he uses more insulation than the local building code requires so that "my houses will look as good inside and out in 15 years as they do the day my clients move in and they'll use less energy."
Expressing similar sentiments, Boston custom home builder Tom Silva, who is best known as the contractor for the This Old House television show says, "When the structure is stronger, elements that make it pretty will last longer." Unbeknownst to most homeowners, he explains, the building code is primarily a safety standard, not a quality one. The focus of the code is the safety of the people building and living in the house, not how well the materials will weather and look over time.
But, Silva elaborates, " If you over-structure and go a little beyond the building code, your house will be stiffer and withstand more punishment from rain and wind and snow as well as the normal wear and tear that occurs in any house that's lived in with kids running around and jumping up and down. When a house is stiffer, it's also more pleasant. When the kids jump overhead, the ceiling fixtures won't swing and the dishes won't rattle in the cabinets."
The four places that Silva encourages his clients to "heavy up" are the structural frame, insulation, windows and the heating and air conditioning system. "Spend a little extra here," he says, and it "will put money in your pocket."
Owners are frequently tempted to cut back on these essentials to make the project come in on budget and still get the oak floor and granite countertops. But Silva says, "You shouldn't cut back. You will save money forever in reduced utility bills and vastly reduced maintenance costs." You can add the granite and oak floor in five years, but in the meantime you're "living in a happier and more comfortable house with windows that always work." In fact, in his experience, five years later, many owners do not find the oak flooring and granite counters so compelling, and they decide to put the money somewhere else.
One place where Silva would "heavy up the structure" but one that most clients take for granted is "what the house sits on—the foundation," which he characterizes as "a snowshoe for your house." The cost for extra reinforcing to the foundation footer and wall is inconsequential, he says.
Most builders say that clients usually resist putting money into things they can't see, but Silva says in his experience people are amenable "when you explain not only what to do but also why to do it." It also helps when the person doing the explaining, as in Silva's case, enjoys iconic status as the most trusted home builder in America.
Beefing up a foundation is a good idea no matter where you live, Silva says, but enhancing other basics depends on where you live.
When you have a fairly benign climate, the case in Charlottesville, Va., for example, you won't benefit from thicker stud walls with more insulation. But, says Charlottesville custom home builder Randy Rinehart, the type of insulation you use will make a big difference in the degree of comfort inside the house. He uses a blown-in cellulose insulation made from recycled newspapers because it reduces air infiltration, which can make rooms drafty in winter. The insulation makes the temperature more even throughout the house, and it deadens sounds from outside.
Rinehart says that clients rarely squawk about the cellulose insulation, which might add $300 to the cost of a 2,500 square foot house. But there can be a lot of soul searching about the windows. When a house comes in over budget, windows are a tempting target because you can substitute cheaper ones and lower your cost without having to alter your design. But, over time window quality will have an impact on the ambience of a space and your enjoyment of it, Rinehart says. Everybody wants big windows that flood a space with natural light. But a cheap builder-grade window is generally less effective in stopping heat loss so you can feel drafts in the winter. In a few years they tend to leak, and the vacuum seals between the two panes of glass often break down so that the panes frost up in cold weather and you can't see out of them as well.
Windows won't frost up during California's mild winters, but the weather there must still be taken into account when choosing them. The salt air, wind and sun can ravage the exterior of houses built near the coast says Frank Fanto of Mendocino. "Some clients want to save money on the exterior to get more sizzle inside, but what you save up front will cost you in maintenance down the road."
Fanto always recommends clad wood windows (the exterior side of the window is vinyl or aluminum that is finished with a highly weather resistant paint). When clients want casement-type windows, he specs corrosive-resistant hinges and hardware. For the exposed wood siding that is standard in his area, he uses copper or stainless steel nails because the cheaper galvanized type used in most parts of the country will rust and leave stains running down the side of your house.
Though the climate of California is more benign than the rest of the country, the natural disasters—earthquakes, mudslides and brushfires—are more severe. As a consequence, the building codes are more stringent than those in others parts of the country, and "beefing up the basics" is not necessary, Fanto says.
But there are other extras that can enhance your enjoyment of your house. Along with making the exterior of the house weather resistant, San Luis Obispo, Calif., custom home builder Turko Semmes adds extra sound proofing to reduce noise within the house. He routinely installs resilient metal channels to dampen sound transmission in walls between bedrooms, bedrooms and bathrooms, and in the ceiling between bedrooms and noisier rooms below, as for example a bedroom over a kitchen-family room area. For a 2,500-square-foot, two-storied house he says the extra cost for the resilient channels would be about $300 to $500. If you're considering French doors for the entry to a master suite or a home office, Semmes likes to add a second layer of glass for sound proofing, which adds about $100 to the cost of each door.
Though many clients have a hard time getting enthusiastic about extras that they won't see, all the builders say they have a harder time with what they can see and are wildly enthusiastic about. The number of decisions that must be made can overwhelm even the most decisive business executive as the number of choices in everything has exploded, observes custom home builder Alan Washak of Columbia, Md. Ten years ago nearly everybody got oak floors. Now oak, maple and cherry floors are standard, and there are plenty of exotic tropical hardwoods to choose from if you want something really different. Once you pick the wood, you still have to decide on a finish and a stain. The oak flooring supplier offers ten stains, and the stair rail supplier offers thirty, Washak said.
Even harder than choosing everything is imaging what it will look like in the finished house. "You can have a very detailed set of plans and a computer simulation, but it's not real life. Most people won't get it until they're standing in it," Washak says. For the kitchen, where most people spend a lot, he and several other builders said they create cardboard mockups to give homeowners a feel for what the counter layout will look and feel like.

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The Attention Your Landscape Needs

Part of the joy of landscaping is the care and maintenance you give to your yard. Depending on the type of plantings and the size, some gardens can require constant full-time care. If you not a big fan of yard maintenance, it might be wise to design a yard that's easy to care for. The first thing to remember with any "yardscape" is that it's a living, breathing entity. Even the simplest, easy-to-care yard will need watering, feeding, cleaning, and disease prevention.
Consider the following list of projects around the yard:
Flower Beds and Planting Areas The amount of time spent here will depend on your plantings. Some plants require constant attention; others are relatively maintenance free. Most flowerbeds contain perennials, which are plants that come back year after year -- expect some to die off over the winter. Check the condition of plants during spring, and replace dead plants with new ones.
Cover ground with an organic mulch. This will help the soil retain moisture and keeps weeds to a minimum. Many flowers do best when you dead-head them (pinch off spent blooms), which encourages more flower growth. After the first hard freeze, cut back all the branches of your plants. And cover plants with mulch to protect them during the cold winter months.
Refuse RemovalDuring the fall, many plants lose their leaves. This leaf material makes a great natural mulch to cover and protect your plants against the cold winter. Remove all leaves from the lawn areas. The layer of leaves can restrict the amount of light reaching the lawn and trap water near the roots. If you have too many leaves, many cities offer leaf-pick-ups with their trash pick-ups.
Hedge and Tree TrimmingShrubs and trees need seasonal trimming. Get a pruning instrument and cut off any dead branches. You may also need to prune back live branches that are getting out of control. Many hedges need to be re-shaped several times a summer. Electrical hedge sheers reduce a lot of arm strain on larger hedges. Do not prune or trim during the fall. This will stimulate growth during a time when the plants should be starting their dormant phase.
Insect ControlNature has a cycle of life, and insects are a part of that. Most healthy plants stay relatively insect-free. For the occasional infestation, consider using natural methods of removal. Sometimes a plant can be washed down with a strong stream of water. Or many garden centers sell other insects (like ladybugs) to get rid of bugs and worms. Chemicals are also a choice; however, you should use extreme caution when applying them. They will not only harm "bad" bugs, but "good" bugs too. They can also harm household animals, birds, children and adults when applied incorrectly. Consider using household "natural" chemicals to control insects. (For example, placing a shallow plate filled with beer in your slug-infested garden often will attract then kill the slimy critters who chew holes in leaves.)
Spring Clean-upThis rite of spring signals the start of the growing season. Most gardens will need a good raking to clean out the leftover leaves and trash that have built up over the cold months. Consider applying a fresh layer of mulch to protect the fresh shoots from a late zapping of frost. This mulch will also keep the ground moist and cool during the summer months and keep weeds at a minimum. And over time, the mulch will work its way into the soil and revitalize it. For best results, choose a mulch made of small organic pieces--"bark fines" or another material like recycled cocoa shells work well. Mulch made from larger wood pieces (like cedar strips or aspen) will take longer to break down into the soil.
WeedingUghhh! They just keep coming back! Removing the entire unwanted "weed" by its roots is the surest way to get rid of it. Herbicides do work, but use extreme caution when applying. They will not only kill the "weed" but also other nearby plants. In planting beds, you can keep weeds to a minimum by covering the soil with an inch or two of mulch.
MowingThe frequency depends on how much you water and feed your lawn. Mowing once a week is typical. Don't cut the blades of grass too short. Longer grass is healthier and retains water better. Many mowers come with "mulching" option that cuts the grass into tiny bits and returns them back to the lawn. This returns important nutrients back to the soil and reduces the amount of fertilizer you need. It also eliminates the need to bag the grass.
Sprinkler MaintenanceA well-designed, professionally-installed sprinkler system should need little maintenance over time. However, you will need to "winterize" it during the fall and start it up during the spring. You system has several pipes that can freeze and burst during winter. Either drain or "blow out" the water from the pipes in mid fall when your yard has gone dormant. Also turn off the timer so it can't accidentally start during the winter. In the spring, you'll need to re-start the system by turning on the timer and possibly turning on a master valve. (Check your system guide for details.)
FeedingYour yard needs food! Depending on your climate, your lawn may need 2 to 5 feedings per growing season. And your growing beds could also use some food. Chemical fertilizers work, however there are several natural organic options too.
Weed PreventionAn inch-thick layer of mulch will keep your planting beds relatively weed-free. The best weed-prevention for lawns is a healthy lawn. Grass is a plant that grows thick and bushy when healthy. This usually will choke out any other "weeds" that could grow there. Exceptions are plants like crabgrass. These grow from seed every year. Some chemical fertilizers come with a "pre-emergent" which kills the seeds in the spring when the plants are dormant.
Core AerationAerate your lawn at least twice a year. This reduces the soil compaction and allows air and water to cycle in and out of the soil. Your lawn will thank you by growing thick and healthy every year.
ThatchingThis is a layer of dead grass that builds up over time just above the soil surface and needs to be removed. Regular aeration often removes a lot of thatch. You can also "de-thatch" your lawn in the early spring with a special machine. Do it while the lawn is still dormant, or else you can damage your lawn.
Perenniel or AnnualWhen planning your flowerbeds, remember that a perennial plant is one that, once planted, will come back year after year, while an annual is one that is planted for only one season.
Landscaping StylesOver the centuries, gardening has developed lots of landscaping specialties.
Here are a few to inspire you:
Topiary - Remember the movie Edward Scissorhands, about a young man who crafts amazing shapes and sculptures by trimming bushes and trees? Topiary design has been for years, and it's largely popular in more formal gardens.
Shade gardening - Some plants do better with less sun. This has sparked a recent trend toward shade gardening. These types of plants and flowers do great under the large canopy of a shade tree or a man-made trellis.
Butterfly gardening - Dozens of butterfly or bird species common to your area make a welcome addition to many gardens. Certain species of plants provide a food source and are useful for attracting these flying friends. Create areas that are open yet protected from the wind.
Rock gardens - While rocks make a wonderful addition to any garden, some gardens are made entirely of rocks. They can be very natural looking. Create a Japanese-style rock garden or choose specific plants to fit between the cracks of the rocks.
Xeriscaping - As much as 50-percent of household water is used for the yard and garden. This landscape specialty includes lots of low-water plants and flowers as well as design ideas to reduce needless water evaporation.
Organic - It's becoming a more popular trend to grow plants organically. That means no chemical fertilizers or sprays and an environmentally conscious way to create a beautiful outdoor living space.
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A Spring Checklist For the Outside of Your Home

Spring is just around the corner, and home maintenance thoughts start turning from inside to outside. Maybe you're considering getting your home ready to sell this spring and need to check out its "curb appeal", or maybe you're just getting things ready for the coming outdoor season -- either way, the following checklist should help your plans to spruce things up, and also give you a head start on warding off future maintenance problems.
Fences: A good place to start is with the perimeter of your property. Winter plays havoc with fences, so check them out carefully. Wiggle the posts to see that they're still firmly set, and look for loose fence boards and loose or rotted stringers. Check also to see if the fence is due for a fresh coat of paint or other finish.
Drainage: While walking the property, be sure and think about drainage around your home as well. Winter storms can cause shifts in local topography that may change drainage patterns, allowing water to move or pool around the foundation, or come into contact with your siding. Look for areas of water staining on the concrete, or dirt or water stain patterns on siding.
Trees: In the wet and well-treed Northwest, you need to keep an eye on potential problems caused by the trees on your property. As you tour, look for limbs that have cracked or are sagging, or trees that may have more of a lean than you remember. Check for overhanging limbs that may be shading the roof and causing mildew problems, or that may be deposing leaves or pine needles that can clog gutters and create a fire hazard.
Foundation: Check the foundation for signs of cracks or other leakage problems. Small cracks can be a source for seepage into the crawl space, and you especially want to take notice of larger cracks that may indicate movement in the ground under or around the home. If you've noticed water in the basement, keep that in mind as you analyze both the foundation and the surrounding drainage patterns.
Decks: Rain and snow take their toll on your decks, so check them over carefully. Check the condition of the boards for rot or splitting. Walk the entire deck to check for protruding nails, and also to see if everything feels solid -- sometimes a simple walk will point up loose supports or areas that need addition bracing. You'll also want to pay attention to deck rails, looking for loose boards, missing nails, separated joints, and support posts that feel wobbly. Finally, check the condition of the deck's finish, and determine if a fresh coat is due this summer.
Siding: Carefully examine the siding to see what winter has wrought. Look at the paint, especially on the main weather-exposure sides of the house. Check the caulking around windows, trim boards, and siding penetrations such as lights and faucets. Look for cracked or sagging boards, or nails that are working loose.
House numbers: While you're looking at the siding, take a moment to check your house numbers. Are the firmly attached and clearly visible from the street? Do they even exist?
Gutters: Bad gutters can cause a variety of moisture problems, and also detract from the appearance of your home. Check that gutters are firmly attached, and that downspouts are well secured and draining properly away from the house. Check the paint for deterioration, especially around joints where you may find indications of leaks in the seams.
Roofing: Let your eyes keep wandering upward, and take a critical look at the condition of your roofing -- you may even find that a pair of binoculars comes in handy. Check to see if shingles have blown off or worked loose, or if they're starting to curl. For asphalt shingles, look at the overall condition of the mineral granules that coat the shingles. Look at the ridge shingles -- especially wood ridge -- to see if any are missing or cracked. Check the condition of flashings and skylights as well.
Chimneys: Take a very close look at chimneys and flue pipes, which again can take a beating during the winter. For masonry chimneys, look for loose bricks or rock, or mortar joints that are deteriorating. For metal wood stove flues and flues for gas appliances, check the flashings, the condition of the pipes, and the condition of the flue cap. If you see any problems with your chimney or flue pipes, have a professional check and repair them immediately -- problems in these areas are serious potential fire hazards.

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Breathing Better in Your Home

Most of us enjoy breathing sweet, clean air. But for the many people who suffer from allergies and respiratory problems, clean air is a necessity, not an indulgence. Fortunately, homeowners these days have a wide range of options that can help them breathe more easily and comfortably in the home.
The traditional furnace air filter isn't designed to clean air much at all. Its only function is to keep large particles like hair and debris from damaging the furnace blower. These large particles are rarely the source of human breathing difficulty.
The main advantage of traditional filters is that they provide low-cost protection to the heating and cooling equipment. But beware, if you don't change these furnace filters every month or two, they will become clogged and eventually drastically reduce your furnace's air supply. At the very least, clogged filters will make your furnace work harder and waste energy. At worse, it will cause "cycling," which can ruin the blower motor.
Cycling occurs when your furnace overheats. The furnace is equipped with a safety feature which automatically shuts it off when it gets too hot. Typically, overheating occurs when the furnace doesn't get enough air flow. Air flow can be hindered by a dirty filter or by furniture blocking return registers. After the furnace cools somewhat, it automatically turns back on. A minute or so later, it overheats and cuts off again. This on-and-off cycling is very hard on the motor. It will also usually limit the furnace's ability to heat the house on especially cold days.
While traditional filters cost less than $2, there are many fancier filters on the market today that filter out enough particulate matter to help humans breathe better. In general, the more costly the filter, the more dust it snags out of the airstream. Costing anywhere from $7 to $100, sophisticated filters can pull out up to five times as much dust as a traditional filter.
Whenever you try a new filter, make sure your furnace doesn't start cycling. After installing the new filter, turn the furnace on and listen carefully. If it cuts off after a few minutes and it does so before the house has reached the temperature you indicated on the thermostat, you may have a problem. If the pattern repeats, check to see if the return air registers around the house are obstructed. If the registers are clear but the furnace keeps cycling, switch back to your original filters.
If you aren't ready to settle for dirty air, ask a professional if your furnace can be modified to accommodate better filters or consider installing an electronic air cleaner. The more advanced the filter, the smaller the particles of dust it can trap. Household dust typically includes large quantities of hair, skin and pollen. It also includes lots of dust mites.
Dust mites are microscopic bugs that look like a cross between Godzilla and a tick -- nasty critters -- and the typical home has millions of them. Fortunately, they are too small to see with the naked eye. If you could see them, you'd probably feel compelled to move out. While the dust mites can be very irritating to the lungs, their dung and carcasses can be even worse.
Generally, the better the air filtering or cleaning system, the more dust mites and dust mite debris that is filtered out of the air. The most impressive filters use electrostatic energy to help capture about 5 times as many particles as a traditional filter. These filters have plastic or metal strips that generate static electricity when the air blows over them. In turn, the static electricity attracts very tiny particles.
As with the basic filter, it is important to change all filters regularly. Some filters are reusable. With these, take them outside and hose them down once every month or two. In the winter, use a deep laundry sink. Many people buy these filters thinking they will save money. But, after cleaning them a couple of times, they decide it's too much bother and switch back to disposables. The choice is yours, but make sure you don't allow dirty filters to stay in your furnace.
Electronic air cleaners, which can extract 30 times as much dust as ordinary filters, cost a lot more. In fact, a professionally installed air cleaner costs $500 to $700, including installation.
While this is a substantial amount of money, it's worth every penny if it offers significant breathing relief to one or more people in your household. But, if the price is too steep for you, portable units can be purchased for far less. Of course, the smaller units clean just the air in one room - much like a window air conditioner cools only one room.
Electronic air cleaners only need to be cleaned once a year or so because they incinerate the trapped dust. The human body is well equipped to handle breathing dirty air, so most people have no problem breathing normal household air - dust mites and all. But if someone in your household suffers from asthma, chronic bronchitis, emphysema, allergies or other respiratory problems, you should investigate ways to make the air in your home more breathable.

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